how to install a ceiling fan

Producers by and large require that fan edges be no less than 7 ft. over the floor. Since most fan and engine congregations are under 12 in. high, they'll fit under a standard 8-ft. roof with the best possible leeway.

Calculated roofs require that you introduce "downrods" (additionally called augmentation tubes or downtubes) that will bring down the engine and fan edges so they'll clear a slanted roof surface. The more space between the roof and the fan, the better. The fan will have more air to draw from, and you'll feel more air development in light of the fact that the edges are nearer to you.

Most fans accompany a short downrod intended for mounting on 8-ft. roofs. In the event that your roof's under 8 ft., you'll have to evacuate the bar gave and flush-mount the fan. Yet, in the event that you have a higher or slanted roof, buy a more extended downrod.Manufacturers for the most part require that fan edges be no less than 7 ft. over the floor. Since most fan and engine congregations are under 12 in. high, they'll fit under a standard 8-ft. roof with the best possible leeway.


Before beginning any work, close off the electrical switch that encourages the switch and light apparatus. In the event that there's a working globule in the installation, turn it on. At that point you'll know you have the correct breaker when the knob goes out. Check the wires with a voltage analyzer to ensure they're off subsequent to expelling the apparatus and while changing the divider switch.

The subsequent stage is to evacuate the current plastic or metal electrical box and introduce a "fan support" that is intended to hold roof fans. Hardly any ordinary boxes are sufficiently solid to help a roof fan, so don't consider attempting to hang your fan from a current box. Rather, purchase a fan prop when you buy your fan. You can pick supports that secure with screws if the surrounding is open from the storage room or if it's new development. Something else, pick a prop that is intended to sneak past the roof opening and through the electrical box. These supports (Photos 3 and 3A) acclimate to fit between the surrounding individuals in your roof; you essentially turn the pole to stay them to the confining.

Most existing electrical boxes are affixed to the confining with nails, making them simple to hammer out with a sledge and a piece of wood . After you free the link, simply leave the old box in the depression. as opposed to attempting to work the case through the roof gap. At that point pull the link through the gap and slip the fan prop through the opening and secure it, following the headings that accompanied the support. Little feet on the closures of supports keep them the right separation from the rear of 1/2-in. thick roofs so the new electrical box will be flush with the surface. On the off chance that you have a thicker roof (like our own), pivot the finishes to accomplish the right dispersing.

 Install another container and a roof fan wiring holder section 

Encourage the current wire through the link brace in the highest point of the new metal box, slip the crate over the seat screws, and fix the nuts to clip the container to the pole with a nut driver or a profound well attachment. Crease a circle of establishing wire seventy five percent around the establishing screw and fix the screw.

Force the roof fan wiring into the new box, mount the container onto the prop  and connect the fan holder section

Assemble the fan and hang it 

Place the engine right side up, string the wire through the downrod and embed the downrod into the mounting neckline.


Wire the fan, fan light and switch

Connect roof fan wiring at the fan 

Interface the exposed ground wire from the crate to the green ground wire on the section with a wire connector. Interface the white nonpartisan wire from the engine to the unbiased wire from the crate. Interface the blue and dark wire from the engine to the dark hot wire from the crate and conveniently overlay them into the case.

New electronic controls spare you from running extra roof fan wiring.

Since most fan establishments are retrofits into existing electrical boxes, there's generally a solitary electrical link associating the installation to a solitary divider switch. You can leave the switch and utilize it to kill the fan on and, at that point utilize the draw affixes on the fan to control fan speed and lights. A moment choice is to introduce electronic controls. Higher-quality fans give you the alternative of including a radio recipient unit. The beneficiary acknowledges signals from an uncommon divider switch (incorporated into the pack) to control the fan and light independently without extra wiring. The collector likewise acknowledges signals from a handheld remote, so you can work numerous fans and tweak fan speed and light power from your La-Z-Boy. Electronic changes are coordinated to fans by flipping code flips in the controls and the fan, much the same as with your carport entryway opener. Introducing an electronic switch (Photo 12) is a snap. The recipient drops directly into the fan lodging and attachments into the base of the engine.

On the off chance that the old light is sustained by two threeway switches rather than a solitary switch, the control choices are somewhat more entangled. You have three options:

Leave the current switches set up and turn one of them on. At that point utilize a remote control to control the fan and lights.

Utilize the current switches and control the fan and lights freely with pull chains.

Incapacitate one of the three-way switches and rewire the other one to get a divider mounted electronic control. Dealing with every one of the wires is mind boggling. You'll require an electrician's assistance for this.